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Safety Guidelines for the
Glacier Mountaineering Society

"There is nothing on that mountain that you need, and nothing that you are getting paid for. You are climbing that peak for no reason except those in your own psyche." J. Gordon Edwards

We climb for reasons that come mysteriously from within our hearts and minds. Climbing is deeply personal. As a result, climbers are individualistic. They do not passively follow unless they believe it to be the best course of action. GMS group participants are often unfamiliar with each other, and there is frequently a wide range of abilities in a typical climbing group, so discipline, patience and courtesy are important safety issues for the GMS.

The GMS has developed a rating system to help assist members when contemplating climbs in Glacier. The system includes an overall rating for:

* the climb (in Roman numerals)
* the most difficult pitch or section on the climb
* the distance (round-trip)
* the elevation gain

The rating is intended only as a quick reference guide and not a substitute for a thorough investigation of the proposed climb. The detailed Climb Classification is published each year in the Glacier Mountaineering Society Journal and is also located HERE on this web site. Note that:

* inclement weather can radically increase the difficulty of a climb
* most accidents occur on class 3 terrain when caution is thrown to the wind in an effort to "make tracks."

Nontechnical climbs: Even when there are no specific technical elements to a particular climb, each individual is responsible for evaluating their physical and mental abilities to be able to handle the physical challenges of a long day with elevation gain and many on- and off-trail miles to be covered.

* objectively gauging their ability to undertake a climb, noting the climb's description and ratings (talking with the coordinator if any doubt exists).
* having appropriate footwear,
* packing adequate food and drink, and
* taking along warm and waterproof clothing capable of sustaining a person through the most fickle mountain weather.

Group responsibilities: All GMS group members are responsible for:

* courtesy toward one another,
* respect for the volunteer efforts of coordinators,
* taking adequate care to minimize rockfall, especially when climbing directly above other group members, and
* not taking off on one's own, endangering others, thereby compromising the entire group's safety.

Stronger, more experienced climbers should always be sensitive to the needs of less experienced participants, helping them to:

* learn mountaineering skills,
* use safe climbing techniques, and
* develop a sense of courtesy toward all climbing companions.

Less experienced GMS participants need to respect instructions and advice given by coordinators.

Guidelines for Coordinators:
Climb coordinators are the individuals who volunteer to select destinations and to coordinate climbing activities on the mountains. Coordinators should establish standards of safety and courtesy for the climbs they lead.

In preparation for climbs, coordinators should:

* assess the difficulty of the climb so that potential participants can honestly decide whether or not they are up to the rigors of the trip
* consider alternative climbs for people with differing skill levels and conditioning
* voluntarily register the itinerary of the climb at nearest ranger station.
* show courtesy to other people using the park (for example, do not climb above trails, causing danger to hikers below.

During the climb, coordinators and more experienced members should:

* attempt to keep the group on route and close together,
* keep the group together (it is important that no participants not climb too far ahead of other party members, or be allowed to lag too far behind),
* note rock and snow conditions along the route,
* observe and adapt to changes in weather
* continually check on the physical and mental condition of the participants
* try to anticipate problem situations before they arise.
* make sure that nobody is being left behind alone.
* help climb members learn new skills.

Coordinators should have the authority and be prepared, if necessary to send an individual back. If the route is too difficult, a member of the climbing party should accompany all retreating persons back to safety.

There are situations that need specific guidelines; gullies, snow, technical pitches, and health emergencies.

Gullies: When a group is climbing in a gully system, especially when passage is narrow, it is important to break up the groups so that no more than two or three climbers are moving at any one time. The remainder of the group should rest in alcoves, or on ledges outside the gully, to minimize rockfall hazards. Climbers should remain very still if they are higher in the gully and should not move until climbers below them are in safe positions. Such route factors as difficulty or length should be considered when determining the maximum number of climbers that should be allowed on a particular route.

Technical Pitches: When climbing more severe pitches on cliffs or snow, it is important that appropriate aid be available to support climbers who feel uncomfortable (provide rope, harnesses, anchor hardware, ice axes and crampons as needed).

Health emergencies: Every GMS climb participant should be responsible for carrying first aid supplies. If a participant has a climbing accident or other medical emergency leaving them unable to continue or retreat, at least one person should remain with the person. Two people should be sent for assistance.

Pack Equipment: When we speak of pack equipment, it is also important to keep weight to a minimum. The style of climbing most often used in Glacier demands light packs so groups can move quickly through varying terrain. The effectiveness of everyone is diminished if weighted down with too much equipment. If additional equipment is needed (technical gear, first aid kits, radios), it is important that weight be considered in selecting what is essential and who should carry it.

Ironically, too much safety equipment can become a hazard.

Minimizing the dangers of rockfall from other climbers:

* Select a route where climbers will not climb directly below each another. (The larger the group, the greater the importance of selecting routes free of loose rock.)
* Do not climb directly below another party. If another party is directly above, seek a sheltered spot until they have traversed to the side. If they do not move from a point where loose rock may be dropped on you, ask the party above to wait for you at some safe point until you can pass from the dangerous location.
* Individuals should not ascend directly below other climbers until those climbers either stop to wait or traverse into other drainage systems.
* If there is no choice but to ascend in each other's fall line (the path a falling rock will take down the slope), either climb as close together as possible (not allowing falling rock to gain speed), or have only one person climb at a time while all others seek shelter or traverse to safer terrain.
* Whenever possible, climb diagonally so that falling rock will miss companions climbing below.

Preventing rockfall:

* Step cautiously so that a minimum of rock will be jarred loose.
* When the grade is steep enough to require climbing with your hands and feet, test each hold gently to identify loose rocks. Be careful not to dislodge rock onto anyone below, and alert following climbers to the presence of unstable rocks.
* If you do dislodge a rock, IMMEDIATELY yell "ROCK! ROCK! ROCK!" Everyone should join in the yelling so climbers below are sure to hear.

Rockfall: Look for signs of natural rockfall. The most dangerous area for rockfall is the center of a gully. When climbing in gullies, look for scuff marks on rocks or grooves in snow. Avoid climbing in the center of gullies. It is much safer to climb up the sides of gullies. Rockfall is almost always channeled down the center of gullies, but remarkable bounces of falling rocks should be anticipated.

When rockfall occurs above:

* seek immediate cover, especially for your head.
* if no immediate cover is available, crouch down to present the narrowest possible target.
* if on a steep slope, press body into the rock, placing head against the cliff. Protect head with arms if not wearing a helmet (NEVER look up to locate falling rock when you are on a steep slope, unless the rockfall is very far above you.).

Lightning:

* If a group gets caught in a lightning storm, they should get off that peak or ridge as fast as possible.
* If the group feels static electricity building around them, danger is imminent.

1) crouch in an open area. only feet should be in contact with the ground
2) stay away from the base of cliffs and avoid caves or overhang shelters
3) place folded waterproof garments under feet to maximize insulation between feet and the ground
4) place all metal objects (cameras, ice axes, etc.) away from the group

Snow and ice

* Stay off potentially hazardous snow fields unless you have proper footwear (good stiff-soled boots with textured bottoms to grip snow).
* Groups should not attempt crossing steep snow fields, unless properly equipped. In emergencies, a long sharp rock, or walking stick can be used in place of an ice ax, but be sure you have been instructed in how to hold the rock or walking stick to stop slides on snow slopes.

Moving water and slippery terrain

* Groups should avoid venturing out onto wet rocks, logs, moist mossy surfaces, or fast moving water. It is especially important to keep from exploring needlessly above waterfalls and rapids.
* When traveling along a stream, groups should know where waterfalls and rapids are located.
* Crossing swift streams can be very hazardous, even when belayed. The belay should involve a tree trunk for an anchor. Many people have drowned at the end of a rope in swift streams because they could not rise to the surface of the water.

Other Considerations: Family members not on a Climb: When a GMS climb is running late or having problems, every effort should be made to pass on information (when it becomes available) to other family members who are waiting at the trail head or the camp or hotel.

"A simple equation exists between freedom and numbers, the more people, the less freedom."
Royal Robbins

Glacier National Park is a contradiction. It has been created to both be used and preserved. The GMS, as a user group, is at the center of this moral dilemma. Members both want to love and protect this fragile resource, while at the same time consuming it.

While careful use creates little impact, Glacier's unique combination of high-altitude environment and intense visitor use threatens this environment even under the best circumstances. Since its inception in 1910, about half of its total visitors have visited the park during the past decade. The majority of those visitors visit during July and August, the peak alpine growing season. The maximum impact comes during the most critical time for plants and animals to store up energy to survive the long winter.

As the GMS grows, our backcountry impact adds to the stress. Over the past ten years, participation in selected activities has grown from a few people sharing a day in the mountains to groups numbering in the twenties and thirties, and as large as 60 participants

On trails, such numbers are somewhat manageable. In high country, these numbers are capable of changing the landscape because the severity of the climate and the ecology of the plant and animal communities is just not capable of recovering from such intense impact.

We must always assume someone will follow in our footsteps, remembering that we are not alone in our use of wilderness. Even though our impact may seem small, the over-all effect of wilderness users is cumulative! We must learn to be willing to accept voluntarily measures of restraint. With our participation, a healthy balance between use and preservation of this fragile wilderness is possible.

Guidelines for Minimum Impact Travel: When walking off trail (especially in tundra or meadow areas), a group of people should spread out and not follow in each other's footsteps.

* When selecting a cross-country route over vegetation, select routes that permit people to spread out. Ten people tramping in a row can crush plant tissue beyond recovery and create channels for erosion.
* Scree sliding is enjoyable, but can cause accelerated erosion. Spread out if you must travel over vegetated areas and remember that only a few tramplings can kill or seriously damage plants.
* When descending loose scree, it is better to move slowly than quickly. Rapid descents are fun, but they move scree down slope more quickly, causing the slope to erode more quickly.
* Take particular care when ascending or descending steep slopes, or crossing areas of water -saturated soils.
* Where the land is so fragile that even a single person leaves a path (very wet areas or where thin layers of lichen or plant colonies have a tenuous hold on a rocky surface), it is better to go in single file so that only a single path is used.

Do not mark cross-country routes. When traveling off trail, do not mark the route with cairns, tree blazes, or in any other way. Leave the area as undisturbed as possible, so that the next group will have the same experience of traveling through trail-less country.

Choose a cross-country route that crosses durable surfaces. When walking off trail, attempt to walk as much as possible on surfaces that will not be disturbed by trampling, such as nonvegetated surfaces, snow, or rock. Try to avoid meadows and wet places.

Use caution when ascending or descending steep slopes. When it is necessary to ascend or descend steep slopes off trail, special care is needed to avoid severe erosion. It is important to spread out and avoid developing trails, to switchback, to move slowly, and to avoid digging boots into the slope.

On soil-covered surfaces, it is better to ascend than to descend, because boot heels carry extra force when moving downhill, increasing erosion.

In mountainous areas, follow the backbone of gradual ridges instead of cutting down steep side slopes. If you must hike on a steep slope, make your own switchback as you ascend and descend. Do not glissade down gravel or scree slopes. Steep slopes are often particularly vulnerable to trail development. Therefore, it is important to minimize use and the impact caused by each hiker. Spreading out dilutes the trampling stress; moving slowly, switchbacking, and not digging boots into the slope reduce the impact of trampling.

Light footwear minimizes impact. When hiking in fragile terrain, consider using a light pair of footwear to minimize your impact on the terrain.

Carry out litter. Carry out all litter, and when litter is found, try to pack it out.

Bury human waste. Bury all human waste in shallow cat holes, covered with soil. Waste should always be buried at least 200 feet from water. In more sensitive areas the use of WAG Bags may be required. These Waste Amelioration and Gelification bags reduce human waste to a safe substance that can be deposited in standard garbage containers. Contact Glacier National Park for more information.

Keep groups small. For environmental reasons, the size of off-trail group should be limited 12 (4 to 6 is the ideal group size for both minimal impact and safety).

When we travel through the backcountry, we are entering the homes of many different animals as visitors. We need to treat them with respect and a lot of care, not adversely affecting them and minimizing disruption to their lives. Glacier's backcountry is one of the last bastions for many wild species - they have no place else to go. We need to respect their situation.

Avoid attracting animals in ways that cause them to lose their wildness:

* do not approach animals to take photographs
* do not feed wildlife
* do not leave food where it might attract wildlife.
* carry out all litter.

Minimize situations that unnecessarily alarm wildlife. For example, a group appearing over a ridge will cause bighorn sheep to flee. Approaching them from below is cause for little concern.

Concluding Statement Glacier National Park is a fragile land. Since the departure of the great glaciers, a hard, slow battle has raged between the elements and plant and animal life to survive and thrive in this rugged environment. This fragile blanket of green and the high country wildlife survive by the narrowest of margins. Attracted to this wild place, we add a dimension to this struggle. The impact we place on all life by the simple act of passage stresses the fragile balance of survival.

As the Glacier Mountaineering Society grows, we need to accept guidelines that assure organized, safe climbs, that GMS events are not in any way responsible for degrading the park's wilderness environment.

Members of GMS, by using Glacier Park's resources are taking advantage of their right to enjoy the park, but at the same time must accept the responsibility of helping to maintain safety standards and this environment's natural balance.

We are all blessed by the access we enjoy to this magnificent resource. To ensure that it remains unchanged, we must voluntarily accept rules and guidelines that assure that our activities will be safe and pleasant, and our passage as invisible as we can make it.

It is important to remember that rare or particularly sensitive plants can occur in all communities. Plant communities listed in order of trampling sensitivity with the most durable at top of list

Stable talus: level or stable talus and boulder fields with high lichen cover and few plants.
Dry ledges: areas with thin soil, either bedrock outcrops or relatively level alpine cobble (flat stable rocks with soil between).
Krummholtz: dwarf or windswept conifer islands (elfin wood).
Meadow: moist to dry meadows, dominated by relatively robust herbaceous species; asters, fleabane, paintbrush, glacier lily, and grasses and sedges.
Cushion Plant: low growing mat-like plants, often on windswept ridges or steep slopes; moss campion, draba and phlox.
Heath: low shrubs of heath and heather.
Tundra: turf (dense plant cover) less than 6" high, moist until late into the year; dominated by grasses, sedges and dwarf willow.
Unstable Talus: scree slopes with sparse vegetation - very susceptible to damage or uprooting.
Wet Ledges: seeping water running over rock; mosses, saxifrage and plants in crevasses.
Saturated Soil (most sensitive): mossy stream banks, boggy sites, very wet meadows; characterized by monkey flowers, sedges, saxifrage and moss.

(This list was prepared by members of the Resource Management Staff of Glacier National Park and private Ecological Consultant Peter Lesica of Missoula, Montana.)